How the modeling industry has ignored diverse body types
The average woman in America is a size 16. So how come only 2.92 percent of models at 19 shows were “plus-size”? And how come 41 out of these 68 models were concentrated in the same 3 fashion shows? The fashion industry has an inclusivity problem that needs to be addressed.
First, we need to ask: why haven't more stores extended their size ranges? Karl Lagerfeld, who was a designer for Channel, once said that people “[don't want] to see curvy women” on the runway. But the truth is, in a study conducted by Florida State University, body satisfaction increased and women remembered more about the models when they saw ‘average’ and ‘plus-size’ women, meaning that it would benefit a brand to include a range of body types.
Plus, when designers begin to make clothes, they do so with a size 2 base-pattern, meaning that they use as little fabric as possible by creating the smallest dress size. This leads them to only create clothes in one size, excluding body diversity from their shows. However, the plus size market is worth $46 billion dollars, so from a business standpoint, including a larger range of sizes would be beneficial.
In terms of advertising, the average American sees about 3,000 advertisements a day. Most of these have slim and beautiful models, and women compare themselves to what they see on their device. However, companies like Sephora, Milk, and Dove are changing the narrative, and have launched campaigns highlighting non-models and body diverse people.
Although this lack of inclusion looks depressing— and for the most part, it is— there are some stores that are worth recognizing.
First, American Eagle Outfitters and their active-wear/ lingerie/ bathing suit line, Aerie. They launched a campaign called AERIEReal, including models of all body types and selling clothes in 39 sizes. Although Nike separates the “plus-size” bras from the other merchandise, they do sell bras that go up to 3x, and have mannequins ranging in body sizes around their stores. The luxury brand Christian Siriano included 11 plus size models in 2020, and has made it a priority in most of his shows. J. Crew sells up to size 3x.
Change is coming, albeit slowly. Hopefully, with encouragement from models already in the industry and pressure from consumers, more brands will begin to sell clothes with a wider range of sizes and models of all body types will be included in fashion shows and advertisements.